Culinary Pleasures, by Nicola Humble
25th Nov 2005, 03:53 GMT
The annual flood of cookbooks is currently in full spate. This is one literary genre that the British public can't get enough of, but it is a moot point how many of the succulent volumes purchased between now and Christmas will ever be read, still less cooked from. Maybe this explains why Culinary Pleasures is the first extended critique of British cookbooks. The acquisition of these salivary manuals to fulfil wholly conceptual appetites - in other words, gastroporn - is far from a new phenomenon. In her Book of Household Management (1861), Mrs Beeton includes a detailed account of turtle soup that Nicola Humble describes as "quite beyond the scope of a domestic kitchen", and almost certainly untried by Mrs Beeton herself.
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